Tour the Hearts On Fire Cutting Facility

Learn how Hearts On Fire creates the ultimate perfection. Take a personal tour with our Master Diamond Cutter, Brian McHardy, in a real Hearts On Fire diamond cutting facility.
Length: (6:08)

Transcript of Video:

Perfection at Every Level
Hi, I'm Brian McHardy from Hearts On Fire. I've been cutting diamonds for over 40 years, and let me tell you I am really excited to be here where we cut The World's Most Perfectly Cut Diamond – Hearts On Fire. This facility is like Mecca to me – there is no other place like it. But, before I can give you a tour I am proud to introduce you to Koen van Ishoven.

First of all, it is not a one-man operation, for sure that is very obvious, so it's really very tiny delicate things that ultimately come together and create a whole. And so every stage is important, and for us, that’s maybe the key to it. That you take every part of the process seriously – and serious to such a degree that you will not go forward until you've reached a certain level of perfection. And then when you combine all those things together in the end you have a very beautiful diamond.

High pressure, High Temperature & Slower Growing Crystals
Alright, so this is where it all happens - The World's Most Perfectly Cut Diamond, Hearts On Fire. In order to produce this fabulous diamond the selection of the rough becomes one of the most important parts of the puzzle. Octahedrons – because they are formed at higher pressure, higher temperature, and slower growing crystals – have the ability to squeeze out all of those imperfections while they are being formed in nature.

Less than a Fraction of One Percent of all the Diamonds in the World will qualify to be Hearts On Fire diamonds
If you take a look at this selection over here, these are some of the rough diamonds that are not selected obviously, as they are lower color lower quality. Here are those beautiful octahedrons we are talking about – these octahedrons are the diamonds of choice for Hearts On Fire diamonds. It doesn’t get any better than this – less than a fraction of one percent of all the diamonds in the world will qualify to be Hearts On Fire diamonds.

The Diamond Cutting Process
After the selection of the rough is the first step in the diamond cutting process. This is the design center, this is ground zero – nobody else does this. This department is called VSP – Value Scan Program. What they do is they scan an image into a computer, which brings up a three dimensional model onto the screen that plots the inclusions and tells us exactly what the diamond is going to look like when it is finished. We are looking for the highest value as opposed to the biggest diamond possible. It gives us the ability to maximize the full potential of every single diamond.

How We Separate The Crystal
Zero Vibration Saw:
After an image of the diamond has been scanned into the computer and all of the inclusions have been plotted, a decision has to be made where to separate the crystal into its two separate pieces and that’s done right here in this department. And as you can see there are the two images – one in blue and one in red. The blue is obviously the bigger of the two and that's usually what happens with a Hearts On Fire diamond – out of a single crystal we'll get one larger and one smaller diamond.

The gold line that you can see between the blue and the red images will show the sawing plane and a laser will then inscribe a line onto the crystal which will give the sawer a line to saw the diamond on. After the marking and designing of the rough it comes to the sawing department. The equipment itself - there is absolutely no vibration at all. The diamond is set into these little pots where it is cemented in and the sawing process starts. Now, the blade that saws through the diamond is actually a very thin little phosphor bronze blade. We take diamond powder and mix it with good old fashioned olive oil – the mixture of diamond powder and olive oil is placed onto this powder roller and what we do is just charge the very edge of the blade with diamond powder it gives the saw blade the ability to saw through this diamond. It takes 4 to 6 hours per carat from the rough to saw through the diamond.

Military Grade Lasers:
Now, there is another way to divide the crystal into two pieces and that is using military grade lasers that can absolutely, precisely separate the crystal into two pieces in ways that we were never able to do it before. If the diamond has been selected to be made into a round diamond it goes into what we call the girdling process and that is a system whereby the points of the diamond after it has been sawed are ground off – what you are seeing behind me over here is the traditional form and traditional way to regirdle diamonds.

Now, at Hearts On Fire because we have to achieve absolute roundness, this system does not work for us - because symmetry and roundness are synonymous so we move to the next part of the system for Hearts On Fire. This is all automated – it is two diamonds that are cemented on two parts that counter-rotate against each other. We can achieve perfect roundness using this system. And now onto the next stage in the process; Faceting.

Faceting and Polishing
Okay, so this is where the rubber meets the road, or in this case the where diamond meets the wheel. There is something truly incredible about all this machinery. The surfaces of our diamonds have to be so highly polished, the symmetry has to be perfect, proportion has to be perfect, everything comes together right here on this vibration-free equipment. The diamond is placed into this little tool that you see here. This is called a tongue, this is called a dopp, you can see there is a 6 ½ carat little diamond here in the end of it right there that we are polishing.

100 Power Magnification
The precision of all of this equipment is absolutely amazing. By the way, it is taken out of circulation every single month at the end of every month and all of these tools are recalibrated in the workshop that's on site. Hearts On Fire diamonds are polished at 100 power magnification, something that we do that nobody else does. All this as I said comes together to create the Hearts On Fire diamond, The World’s Most Perfectly Cut Diamond.